JUST BACK FROM: Detroit, Michigan

Norman Mailer called it a one-trade town. A later generation might described Detroit as, perhaps, a two trade town, Motown of the automobile, or car as we still call it, using the ancient word given to the Romans by the early Irish. And, conveniently, also called motown by music lovers, from the record label.

Unsurprising then, that some of Detroit’s headline tourist attractions relate to music and cars, a museum that is worth travelling 5,500km to see: the Henry Ford museum, and a feelgood museum in the old Motown record studio, like visiting someone’s home and finding Marvin Gaye, Michael Jackson and Diana Ross in a jam session together.

But the taste you bring home with you is not Unsurprise. It is the opposite. There is a surprise around almost every corner of this city.

Shrines to the internal combustion engine.

Shrines to the music, not just the two genres it invented, Motown and Hip-Hop, but almost everything else that makes people dance, jazz, hip hop , rap and rock.

Shrines to the underground railway which terminated here, the only American city looking south to Canada.

Shrines to the food of the flat countryside to the west and the culinary pragmatism of a factory city.

Shrines to the swarm of humanity which poured in from everywhere to make this America’s fourth most populous city.

Shrines to the Irish who came to build and work and die here.

And shrines to the beating heart of modern American culture, its precious sports events staged in four big league stadiums, the priceless art pieces that were accumulated in its pomp and still displayed today, and the great human story of boom and bust, world domination and decline, opulence and racial bifurcation.

Now Delta fly direct from Dublin. Here’s what we found on our rambles.

The big league attractions

Motown Museum (Hitsville U.S.A.): Located in New Center, this museum chronicles the legacy of Motown Records, showcasing memorabilia from artists like Stevie Wonder, the Supremes, and Marvin Gaye. Guided tours include Studio A, where iconic hits were recorded. Admission is $20, and it’s open Wednesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Expect expansion updates in 2025 as part of ongoing renovations. A must for music fans, offering an immersive dive into Detroit’s musical influence.
Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA): In Midtown, this world-class museum houses over 65,000 artworks, including Diego Rivera’s Detroit Industry murals. Named a top art center by Midwest Living, it features a sunken Kresge Court for wine and relaxation and hosts Friday Night Live! music performances. Admission is $18, free for those under 18, open weekdays 9 a.m.–4 p.m. (Fridays until 10 p.m.) and weekends 10 a.m.–5 p.m. A cultural gem with diverse collections, ideal for art lovers.
The Henry Ford and Ford Rouge Factory Tour: In Dearborn (15 minutes from downtown), The Henry Ford complex includes the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation, with artifacts like JFK’s limousine, and the Ford Rouge Factory Tour, showcasing modern F-150 production. Admission is $24-$30, open daily 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. A deep dive into Detroit’s automotive heritage, perfect for history and car enthusiasts.
Belle Isle Park: A 982-acre island park in the Detroit River, offering kayaking, biking, and cultural attractions like the Belle Isle Aquarium (the oldest in the U.S.), Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory, and Dossin Great Lakes Museum. A day pass for non-residents is $11. The park features picnic areas, trails, and scenic views of Canada. A family-friendly outdoor escape with diverse activities and natural beauty.
Eastern Market: The largest historic public market district in the U.S., operating since 1841, draws up to 45,000 visitors on Saturdays. Explore six blocks of vendors, food trucks, and nearby restaurants like Vivio’s for Bloody Marys. Open year-round, with peak vibrancy on weekends. A lively hub for food, local goods, and community spirit.
Detroit Riverwalk: A 3.5-mile pedestrian path along the Detroit River, connecting downtown to Belle Isle, with stunning cityscape and Windsor, Ontario, views. Free to explore, it’s ideal for walking, biking, or kayaking in warmer months. Offers scenic relaxation and a chance to experience Detroit’s revitalized waterfront.

Detroit in 2025 is a city on the rise, blending its automotive and Motown heritage with a revitalized cultural and culinary scene. Visitors can expect world-class attractions like the Detroit Institute of Arts, Belle Isle Park, and the Motown Museum, alongside vibrant neighbourhoods like Corktown and Greektown. New developments, including Michigan Central Station, the Gordie Howe International Bridge, and Ralph C. Wilson Jr. Centennial Park, plus events like the Movement Festival and a booming food scene with Korean and Mexican additions, make 2025 an exciting time to visit.

Getting Around: The Detroit People Mover and QLINE streetcar provide easy downtown access, with extended hours during events like Memorial Day weekend. A car or rideshare is best for reaching spots like Dabls MBAD or Hamtramck Disneyland. Parking garages near venues like Little Caesars Arena fill up fast, so consider lots a few blocks away for events.
Budget-Friendly Options: The Belt and Dequindre Cut are free, while many museums offer discounted days. The Savor Festival and Lone Star Smokeout provide affordable food and entertainment. The Detroit CityPASS offers savings on multiple attractions.
Local Flavour: Explore new dining spots like Ostrea Seafood or Carajillo for innovative cuisine, or visit Eastern Market for fresh, local flavors. The Whitney’s high tea is a unique cultural experience with scones and live piano.
Cultural Immersion: Neighborhoods like Five Points, Corktown, and Hamtramck offer authentic vibes with art, food, and history. The Blair-Caldwell Library and Dabls MBAD provide deep dives into African American and African heritage.

Sports and Entertainment:

Detroit is home to four major sports teams: Detroit Lions (NFL, Ford Field), Tigers (MLB, Comerica Park), Red Wings (NHL, Little Caesars Arena), and Pistons (NBA, Little Caesars Arena). Catch games or tours of venues, with tickets starting at $20-$50 depending on the event.
The Fox Theatre, a 1928 Art Deco gem, hosts Broadway shows and concerts (e.g., Heart on June 4, 2025), while The Fillmore features cutting-edge bands. A vibrant sports and entertainment scene for fans of all kinds.
Guardian Building: A 1928 Art Deco skyscraper, known as the “Cathedral of Finance,” with exotic marbles, mosaics, and a Tiffany clock. Free to visit, located downtown at Griswold and Larned. A stunning architectural landmark showcasing Detroit’s historic wealth.
Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History: In Midtown, this museum explores African American contributions through interactive exhibits. Admission is $10-$12, open Tuesday–Sunday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Save with the D Discount Pass. Educational and inspiring, with a focus on civil rights and history.
Heidelberg Project: An outdoor art installation in McDougall-Hunt, featuring polka-dotted streets and homes adorned with quirky sculptures. Free to explore, it’s a testament to Detroit’s creative resilience. A unique, community-driven art experience unlike anything else.

Neighbourhoods:

Corktown: Detroit’s oldest neighborhood, named for the county from which the original residents arrived, trendy eateries like Supergeil, and the Michigan Central innovation hub. Known as “Detroit’s coolest neighbourhood,” it’s walkable and vibrant.
Greektown: A lively district with Greek cuisine, the Hollywood Casino, and easy People Mover access.
Midtown: Home to the DIA, cultural institutions, and Wayne State University, with a mix of historic and modern vibes.
Southwest Detroit: A culturally rich area with authentic Mexican restaurants like Xochimilco and colorful murals.
Eastern Market: A foodie haven with markets, murals, and nearby Dequindre Cut Greenway for street art and biking.
Rivertown: Scenic waterfront with parks, dining, and riverfront activities.

Culinary Scene

Detroit-Style Pizza: Known for its thick, crispy crust and sauce-on-top style, try it at Buddy’s Pizza (the originator), Michigan & Trumbull, or Pie Sci. Expect to spend $15-$25 for a pizza.
Coney Dogs: A Detroit original, these beef hot dogs with chili, onions, and mustard are best at Lafayette or American Coney Island, both downtown, for about $5-$7.
Diverse Dining: From Mexican at Xochimilco (tacos de lengua) to Nepalese momos at Momo Cha in Detroit Shipping Company, Detroit’s food scene is global. Try Selden Standard, a James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurant.
Coffee and Bakeries: Madcap Coffee for nitro cold brew, Cannelle for award-winning pastries, and Roasting Plant for farm-to-cup coffee.
Vernors Ginger Ale: A Detroit-exclusive soda, perfect with pizza or coney dogs.

Outdoor and Family Activities

Kayaking and Biking: Available at Belle Isle and along the Riverwalk in warmer months. Bike rentals are affordable ($10-$15/hour).
Parks: Campus Martius Park, with its ice-skating rink in winter (open November–March, $10-$12), and Beacon Park for free events and green spaces, saw 2.2 million visits in 2023.
Michigan Science Center (MiSci): Interactive exhibits for kids, with admission around $14-$18.
Seasonal Festivals: Year-round events like the Detroit Jazz Festival (Labor Day weekend), Movement Electronic Music Festival (May 24–26, 2025), and holiday markets in winter.

Getting Around

Public Transit: The QLINE streetcar (3.3 miles along Woodward Avenue) and People Mover (2.9-mile downtown loop) are free in 2025, connecting major attractions.
Driving: Detroit is car-centric, with easy parking (event rates $25-$40 near stadiums, cheaper lots $10-$15). Street parking is metered 7 a.m.–10 p.m.
Rideshare: Uber and Lyft are widely available, with airport-to-downtown fares around $30-$40.
Airport: Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport (DTW) is 20 miles from downtown, with taxis costing about $45.
Biking: A decent bike-share program and trails like Dequindre Cut make cycling a fun option.

Best Times to Visit

Summer (June–August): Warm (highs of 80-85°F), ideal for kayaking, Riverwalk strolls, and festivals like the Detroit Jazz Festival. July is the sunniest and hottest month, but accommodations are pricier.
Spring (April–May): Mild (50-70°F), with blooming parks and fewer crowds. Great for indoor attractions if rainy.
Fall (September–October): Crisp (50-70°F), with vibrant foliage, farmers’ markets, and events like Detroit Oktoberfest (September 19–21, 26–28, 2025).
Winter (December–March): Cold (20-32°F) with snow, but budget-friendly with indoor attractions and ice-skating at Campus Martius. Holiday markets add festive charm.

What’s for 2025

Detroit’s revitalisation is in full swing, with $9.2 billion in economic impact from 16.5 million visitors in 2022 and even stronger projections for 2025, driven by new developments and major events. The city’s recognition by the New York Times as a top destination for 2025 highlights its momentum. Here are the highlights:

Michigan Central Station Reopening: Ford Motor Company’s $950 million restoration of this Beaux-Arts train station in Corktown, closed since 1988, transformed it into a tech and innovation hub. Opened in 2024, it will fully activate in 2025 with public spaces, restaurants, retail, and community events. Tours are available, showcasing its restored grandeur. A symbol of Detroit’s rebirth, it’s a must-visit for its architecture and role as a community hub.
Gordie Howe International Bridge: Set to open in fall 2025, this 1.5-mile cable-stayed bridge will be North America’s longest, connecting Detroit to Windsor, Ontario. It supports motorists, cyclists, and pedestrians, with public art commemorating the Underground Railroad. Enhances cross-border travel and highlights Detroit’s historical significance.
Ralph C. Wilson Jr. Centennial Park: A 22-acre riverfront park along the Detroit Riverwalk, set to open in 2025, offering lush green spaces, recreational areas, and skyline views. Part of the revitalized west riverfront, it’s a key addition to Detroit’s public spaces. Expands outdoor options for visitors, perfect for families and relaxation.
Renaissance Center (RenCen) Redevelopment: Bedrock and General Motors unveiled a 2025 plan to reimagine the iconic RenCen, including a ¼-mile park along the riverfront, creating a Navy Pier-style entertainment district with public spaces, dining, and retail. Transforms a corporate landmark into a vibrant visitor destination.
Hudson’s Detroit Project: Opening in 2025 at 1208 Woodward Avenue, this mixed-use development includes a 14-story mid-rise and a 45-story tower on the historic J.L. Hudson site. It features residential units, retail, and office spaces, becoming Detroit’s second-tallest building. A skyline-defining project boosting downtown’s residential and commercial appeal.

New Dining and Culinary Trends:

Witch Topokki: Opened April 2025 in Troy, this all-you-can-eat Korean restaurant lets diners customize topokki with proteins and broths.
Carajillo: A new Mexican restaurant on Woodward, offering botanas, tacos with unique fillings like huitlacoche, and pambazos.
La Pecora Nera: Italian sandwiches in Birmingham, expanding Detroit’s metro dining scene.
Marrow’s Butcher Shop and Café: A casual expansion in Birmingham with meatball subs and banh mi, opened in 2025.
Dumpling Trend: 2025 sees a boom in dumplings, with spots like Momo Cha (Nepalese momos), Tai Pan Bakery (bao buns), and Polish Village Cafe (pierogi) leading the way. Detroit’s food scene embraces global flavors, aligning with Whole Foods’ 2025 trends like protein-rich dishes and international snacks.

Infrastructure and Investment:

Stellantis Megahub: A $400 million investment by automaker Stellantis, announced in 2025, will create hundreds of UAW jobs in Detroit, reinforcing its automotive legacy.
New Henry Ford Hospital and MSU Medical Research Facility: Part of a $3 billion development near Grand Boulevard, starting in 2025, with affordable housing and green spaces.
First Five-Star Hotel: Detroit’s first five-star hotel is slated to open in 2025, enhancing luxury accommodations. These projects bolster Detroit’s economy and visitor infrastructure.

Tourism Trends:

Detroit welcomed 19 million visitors in 2019, with 2025 projections expecting similar or higher numbers, driven by the NFL Draft’s 750,000 attendees in 2024.
The D Discount Pass, Dining in the D Pass, Detroit Brew Trail, and Detroit Pizza Pass offer 20%+ savings on attractions and dining, making exploration affordable.
Violent crime is down 15% from 2024, improving safety perceptions for visitors.

Tips for Visitors

Planning: Use Visit Detroit’s website for the D Discount Pass, itineraries, and the Detroit Vibe newsletter for event updates. The 72-Hour Guide for First Timers is ideal for new visitors.
Accommodations: Stay downtown at the Shinola Hotel or Detroit Foundation Hotel for proximity to attractions and a historic vibe. Avoid stadium areas for quieter, cheaper stays. Rates range from $100-$300/night, with luxury options like the Godfrey Hotel in Corktown.
Budget: Spring and fall offer lower hotel rates and pleasant weather. Free attractions include the Guardian Building, Riverwalk, and People Mover rides.
Local Vibe: Detroiters are friendly, proud of their city’s revival, and eager to share its story. Expect a safe, vibrant downtown and Midtown, though stay alert at night.
Sustainability: The city promotes eco-friendly initiatives, with Michigan Central’s green design and bike-friendly infrastructure.

Off the Beaten track:

Detroit, Michigan, known as the Motor City, is a destination undergoing a remarkable renaissance, blending its storied industrial past with a vibrant, creative present. Visitors in 2025 can expect a dynamic mix of cultural attractions, historic neighborhoods, and a burgeoning food and arts scene, all infused with Detroit’s gritty charm and resilient spirit.

Beyond iconic attractions like the Detroit Institute of Arts or Motown Museum, the city’s lesser-known gems provide authentic experiences that showcase its soul:

John K. King Used & Rare Books: Housed in a former glove factory in the West Industrial District, this independent bookstore is a bibliophile’s paradise with over one million books. Its labyrinthine rows feature rare editions, vintage paperbacks, and obscure titles, with some so rare they require an appointment to view. It’s a quiet, quirky retreat for book lovers seeking a unique experience.: 901 W Lafayette Blvd, Detroit, MI 48226. A treasure hunt through a massive, eclectic collection in an industrial setting, perfect for a rainy day or literary adventure.
The Belt: Located in a repurposed alley in downtown Detroit, The Belt is an urban art gallery featuring vibrant murals and installations by local and international artists. Named for its belt-like shape between Gratiot and Broadway, it’s a hidden gem for street art enthusiasts, offering a colorful backdrop for photos and a glimpse into Detroit’s creative revival.: Between Gratiot Ave and Broadway St, Detroit, MI 48226. A free, open-air art experience with a gritty, urban vibe, ideal for a casual stroll or Instagram-worthy shots.
Dabls MBAD African Bead Museum: In the Old Redford neighborhood, this outdoor museum by artist Olayami Dabls showcases African beadwork, sculptures, and colorful murals across a campus of repurposed buildings. The Iron Teaching Rocks How to Rust installation tells African history through art, making it a thought-provoking stop for cultural explorers.: 6559 Grand River Ave, Detroit, MI 48208. A vibrant, community-driven art experience celebrating African heritage, with guided tours available for deeper insight.
Lincoln Street Art Park: In the Recycling District near New Center, this outdoor sculpture park transforms scrap materials into art, featuring quirky installations like a robot made from car parts. It’s a low-key spot for art lovers and families, with a community garden and ever-changing exhibits that reflect Detroit’s DIY ethos.: 5926 Lincoln St, Detroit, MI 48208. A funky, eco-conscious art park with a laid-back vibe, perfect for creative inspiration or a picnic.
Cliff Bell’s: A historic jazz club in the Foxtown area, Cliff Bell’s has been a Detroit staple since 1935, offering live jazz in an Art Deco setting. Less touristy than larger venues, it’s a cozy spot to enjoy local musicians, craft cocktails, and soulful ambiance without the crowds.: 2030 Park Ave, Detroit, MI 48226. An intimate evening of live music and vintage charm, ideal for jazz enthusiasts or a date night.
Pewabic Pottery: In the East Side’s Jefferson-Chalmers neighborhood, this historic pottery studio, founded in 1903, is a National Historic Landmark known for its iridescent glazes and Arts and Crafts-style tiles. Visitors can tour the studio, shop for handcrafted ceramics, or take a workshop to create their own piece.: 10125 E Jefferson Ave, Detroit, MI 48214. A hands-on cultural experience in a historic setting, perfect for art lovers and those seeking unique souvenirs.
Heidelberg Project: This outdoor art installation in the McDougall-Hunt neighborhood transforms abandoned houses into vibrant sculptures using found objects like clocks and shoes. Created by artist Tyree Guyton, it’s a powerful commentary on urban decay and renewal, drawing visitors to a less-explored part of the city.: 3600 Heidelberg St, Detroit, MI 48207. A thought-provoking, colorful art walk that’s both inspiring and unconventional, best explored with a camera.
Hamtramck Disneyland: In the enclave of Hamtramck, this backyard folk art installation by Dmytro Szylak is a whimsical display of handmade sculptures, windmills, and colorful figures. Visible from the street, it’s a quirky, under-the-radar spot that embodies Detroit’s creative spirit.: 12087 Klinger St, Hamtramck, MI 48212. A delightful, eccentric art experience that’s free to view, perfect for a quick stop or photo op.
Dequindre Cut Greenway: This 2-mile urban trail in the Eastern Market area connects the riverfront to residential neighborhoods, featuring vibrant street art and a car-free path for walking or biking. Less crowded than the Riverwalk, it’s a local favorite for experiencing Detroit’s urban renewal and art scene.: Access near 1900 Atwater St, Detroit, MI 48207. A scenic, low-key trail with colorful murals and a relaxed atmosphere, great for exercise or exploration.
Third Man Records Cass Corridor: In the Midtown area, this record store and vinyl-pressing factory, founded by Detroit native Jack White, offers a counterculture vibe with rare vinyl, live music events, and quirky memorabilia like Diana Ross’s pink velvet pumps. It’s a must for music fans seeking a less touristy alternative to the Motown Museum.: 441 W Canfield St, Detroit, MI 48201. A hip, industrial-chic space with music history and unique finds, perfect for vinyl collectors and White Stripes fans.
Ralph C. Wilson Jr. Centennial Park: Opening autumn 2025 along the Detroit Riverfront, this 22-acre park will feature a 20-foot bear slide, a water garden, a playground, a Sport House, and an event lawn. With over 800 trees and a continuation of the 5.5-mile Riverwalk, it’s a transformative addition to the city’s public spaces, offering new recreational opportunities.: West Riverfront, Detroit, MI 48226. A lush, family-friendly park with unique features and stunning river views, perfect for picnics, sports, or concerts.
Gordie Howe International Bridge: Set to open in September 2025, this 1.5-mile cable-stayed bridge will be North America’s longest, connecting Detroit to Windsor, Ontario. Public art and signs commemorating the Underground Railroad will highlight its cultural significance, making it a landmark for motorists, cyclists, and pedestrians.: Detroit River, near West Jefferson Ave, Detroit, MI 48209. A scenic crossing with historical significance, ideal for cyclists or those exploring cross-border attractions.
District Detroit Development: Construction is slated to begin in 2025 on the $1.5 billion District Detroit project, starting with a 261-unit apartment building at 2205 Cass and a 290-room hotel near Little Caesars Arena. These projects aim to house University of Michigan students by 2027 and boost downtown’s hospitality scene, though exact Ascendancy exact timelines remain fluid.: Cass Ave, Detroit, MI 48201. Emerging residential and hotel options that enhance downtown’s vibrancy, though primarily for locals and students in 2025.
Cosm Detroit at Monroe Blocks: Bedrock’s Monroe Blocks development will break ground by May 2025, featuring Cosm, an immersive sports and entertainment venue with wraparound LED screens and a 12K-resolution LED dome for watching live sports and events like Cirque du Soleil. This innovative venue will offer a unique, high-tech experience for visitors.: Monroe St near Campus Martius, Detroit, MI 48226. A cutting-edge entertainment hub for sports fans and art lovers, adding a futuristic twist to downtown’s offerings.
Hudson’s Detroit Development: The 12-story office block at 1208 Woodward Ave is expected to open by late 2025, with General Motors relocating its headquarters there. The adjacent 45-story tower, housing luxury condos and an Edition Hotel, will continue construction but won’t open until 2027. This project marks a significant step in downtown’s revitalization.: 1208 Woodward Ave, Detroit, MI 48226. A new business hub with GM’s presence, though primarily impacting workers in 2025; visitors can admire the rising skyline.

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