One of the most stunning entrance roads to any hotel on the planet is to be found within twenty minutes of Dublin, on a winding road that glances across the valley to Wicklow’s signature Sugarloaf mountain.
It is enough to tempt a guest to stop and gape. Stay too long or get too distracted and you’ll run over a golfer, because the course is spreadeagled around they hotel entrance. Further along the road is the famous house, accidentally burned in 1976 and the waterfall. Here, beauty becomes casual, a habit. The seasons are a slideshow.
The five-star property spans 1,000 acres amid the Wicklow Mountains and overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain. Eamonn Casey joined the hotel as general manager in April 2022, bringing nearly 20 years of experience from roles at the Shelbourne and Westin in Dublin. Under his leadership, the team maintains a focus on local produce and estate activities.
First, the lobby. Visitors arrive at the grand entrance with its Palladian-style facade where they will find staff ready to assist with check-in. Reception areas feature marble floors, high ceilings and large windows that frame mountain views.
The concierge can book tee times on the two 18-hole championship golf courses or arranges a visit to the nearby Powerscourt Gardens.
Accommodation covers 200 rooms and suites, many with balconies that face the valley. Rooms include king-size beds, rain showers and complimentary bathrobes. Suites add sitting areas and fireplaces for added comfort.
My room was long and leisurely, desk in its own free standing space away from the walls at one end, bed at the other, a walk in wardrobe by the entrance door which had its own hall, and a bathroom with a real bath. A signature of the hotel is the TV in the mirror in the bathroom, where the newsreader can keep an eye on you and mock your facial hair.
Entertainment includes rounds on the golf courses, which wind through woodland and offer mountain backdrops. Guests play tennis on outdoor courts or join archery sessions on the lawns. The estate hosts falconry displays and clay shooting for those seeking outdoor pursuits. Evenings bring live music in the lounge or quiet strolls through the gardens.
Hospitality extends through the ESPA Spa and Wellness Centre, which houses 20 treatment rooms, a 20-metre indoor pool lit by Swarovski crystals and a thermal suite with saunas and steam rooms.
The pool is in the basement, like a reservoir in Istanbgul, all dark and mysterious and full of entrancing shadows.
The fitness centre provides classes such as yoga overlooking the hills. Children access a kids’ club with crafts and games during school breaks. Bicycles stand available for complimentary use on estate trails.
Two things. The lift, or elevators in American. It’s complicated if you’re on the fifth floor or higher, because only the lifts the left of the lobby bring you there. It adds a quirky confusion to the alignment of the hotel.
There was also a revolving door, which seem to have a dislike for me and made it several attempts to injure me. Omerta, maybe, given all the Italianate luxury around.
Where’s the beef? In the basement, along with the halibut and a fabulous lobster starter. Dining spans several spots across the resort. Sika Restaurant serves contemporary Irish dishes such as Wicklow lamb and seasonal seafood, with terrace seating for outdoor meals.
The Sugar Loaf Lounge provides all-day options including afternoon tea with scones and finger sandwiches. McGills Irish Pub offers hearty fare like fish and chips alongside craft beers and whiskeys. The Sally Gap Bar and Brasserie delivers casual bites in a light-filled space with views of the estate. The ideal place to end the night, but not the highlight. In Powersscourt that is the return to the room, low light and the full moon floodlighting the scenery outside. And a Tv in the mirror should you be so inclined.
