JUST BACK FROM: Hartford, Connecticut

Eoghan Corry outside the impossibly knobby Mark Twain mansion.

By Eoghan Corry

It strikes me that “I heart New York,” one of the most famous tourism slogans was a missed opportune pity for Hartford. I heart Hartford. Striking and memorable. It would re=-establish the reputation of a city that was once at the heart of creativity, the great publishing capital of the USA when book publishing was bigger than Netflix. Which is why you can go on the trail of great authors here, my personal poet-hero Wallace Stevens, Harriet Beecher and the incomparable Mark Twain.

Nowadays it is best known this idea as one of the more ingenious direct route destinations from Dublin in Aer Lingus’ growing portfolio, half way between Boston and New York, and an enticing and attractive place in its own right. Hotel rooms cost $400 in Manhattan, and can be got for one third the price, and that is just the start of the myriad advantages of using Hartford as the kick-off point, end-point, base, or all three on a visit to the USA.

A compact capital city blending rich history, cultural depth, and urban revival with a gritty New England charm, they say. Visitors can expect a mix of historic landmarks, vibrant arts, diverse food, and green spaces, all easily navigable in a weekend.

The city’s must-do attraction relates to a man who was not born or died here, but who lived in a movie-set mansion for the 17 most productive years of his life (1874-1891). Long after his death, the proprietors of Mark Twain mansion set about trying to relocate the contents of the house when Samuel Clemens lived there.

Tour guide Rebecca Floyd takes up the story: It was the 1950s when they started to really make an effort to find Cemens’s family objects. He was so famous, right? If you had bought Mark Twain’s chair in 1903 or 1904, you probably kept records of that. So a lot of families had passed these things down and they were still around where people knew where they had gone.

The mirror had gone to an upholstery shop in Hartford. And so when that that building was gonna be taken down, we were like, wait, wait, try to go get that mirror back. Then came the chairs, the chandeliers. The family who bought the house from from the Clemens’s was the president of the Hartford Insurance company., which is still just down the street. The Richard Bissell family took out the chandelier and they donated it.

Stop by to see the small memorial to the Tyrone born coachman to Mark Twain/Samuel Clemens, Patrick McAleer, who immigrated to the United States at age 16.

Historical and Cultural Highlights

Mark Twain House & Museum (351 Farmington Ave): Expect a guided tour through the quirky, Gothic-style home where Samuel Clemens wrote Huckleberry Finn. The interiors—think Tiffany glass and hand-stenciled walls—are as eccentric as Twain himself. Tours (1 hour, ~$25/adult) reveal his family life and wit, with a museum showcasing manuscripts. It’s a literary pilgrimage, less maritime-focused than New Bedford’s Whaling Museum but equally personal.
Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art (600 Main St): America’s oldest public art museum offers 50,000+ works, from Hudson River School paintings to surrealist gems by Dalí. Expect a manageable 2-hour visit (~$15/adult), with rotating exhibits and a quiet café. It’s more traditional than New Bedford’s indie galleries but broader in scope.
Connecticut State Capitol (210 Capitol Ave): A free, hour-long tour showcases this 1878 architectural marvel—gold dome, marble halls, and historic artifacts like the Genius of Connecticut statue. Expect to learn about quirky state history (e.g., the Charter Oak). It’s a civic contrast to Southeastern Massachusetts’ naval focus at Battleship Cove.
Bushnell Park (99 Trinity St): Hartford’s green heart, this 50-acre park has a 1914 carousel ($2/ride), walking paths, and the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Arch. Expect families picnicking and seasonal events like jazz festivals. It’s more urban than Westport’s Horseneck Beach but equally relaxing.
Connecticut Science Center – Perfect for families or curious minds, it has hands-on exhibits, a 3D theater, and STEM-focused activities. The rooftop garden offers city views.
Hartford Stage – This award-winning theater hosts a range of performances, from classic plays to bold new works. Check their schedule for something fresh.
Walk the Riverfront – Head to the Connecticut River for scenic trails, kayaking, or a riverboat cruise. The Riverfront Recapture parks connect Hartford and East Hartford with green spaces and skyline views.
Dive into history at the Old State House – A National Historic Landmark where you can explore early American governance, see a quirky museum with oddities, or join a guided tour.
Grab a bite in the West End – Hartford’s food scene shines here with diverse spots like Tisane for eclectic eats, Zohara for Mediterranean, or Max Downtown for upscale comfort food

Off-the-Beaten-Path Gems

Elizabeth Park Conservancy (1561 Asylum Ave): Expect a tranquil rose garden (peak bloom: June–July) with 800 varieties, plus pergolas and ponds. It’s quieter than Bushnell, with free entry and a cozy Pond House Café for brunch (~$15–$20). Like Fort Phoenix in Fairhaven, it’s a local haunt with history—here, from 1904.
Cedar Hill Cemetery (453 Fairfield Ave): Wander this 1864 cemetery’s rolling hills, dotted with mausoleums of figures like J.P. Morgan. Expect a serene 1-hour stroll, free, with Gothic and Egyptian Revival monuments. It’s akin to New Bedford’s Riverside Cemetery but larger, with more prominent names.
Real Art Ways (56 Arbor St): An edgy art space in Parkville, expect avant-garde exhibits, indie films, and poetry slams in a converted warehouse. Entry is ~$5, with events like gallery openings free. It’s Hartford’s answer to New Bedford’s Kilburn Mill—grittier than the Wadsworth.
Butler-McCook House & Garden – Hidden on Main Street, this 1782 home is one of Hartford’s oldest, offering a glimpse into colonial and Victorian life. The intimate tours reveal personal stories of the families who lived here, and the restored heirloom garden is a quiet gem for plant lovers.
Keney Park – Spanning 693 acres in the North End, this under-the-radar park feels like a secret wilderness. Explore its hiking trails, old-growth forest, or the historic cricket field. It’s great for birdwatching or a low-key picnic, with far fewer crowds than Bushnell Park.
Charter Oak Landing – A quieter riverside spot along the Connecticut River, this park offers scenic trails and fishing areas with skyline views. It’s tied to the legend of the Charter Oak tree, where colonists hid their charter from the British. Perfect for a reflective walk or kayaking without the bustle of downtown riverfronts.
Pope Park – In Frog Hollow, this historic park designed by the Olmsted brothers is a local favorite but often overlooked by visitors. It has winding paths, a pond, and open fields. Check out the quirky public art or catch a pickup soccer game with neighborhood vibes.
Pratt Street – Not a single venue but a charming, cobblestone micro-district downtown, often missed by tourists. Lined with small shops and cafés, it feels like a step back in time. Grab coffee at Story and Soil or browse vintage finds at retro boutiques during quieter weekday hours.
Attend a Hartford Wolf Pack game – If you’re into hockey, catch this AHL team at the XL Center for fast-paced action and a lively crowd.

Culinary and Social Scene

Food: Hartford’s dining reflects its diversity. Expect Puerto Rican mofongo at Cora Cora ($15), Mediterranean at Zohara ($25), or upscale pub fare at Max Downtown (~$30). Food halls like Parkville Market offer global bites (Korean, Jamaican, BBQ) under one roof, like New Bedford’s Portuguese spots but more varied. For sweets, Capital Ice Cream serves unique flavors like ube.
Drinks: Craft beer flows at Hog River Brewing or City Steam Brewery, both with taprooms (~$6–$8/pint). They’re less farm-focused than Buzzards Bay Brewing but have urban edge. Coffee lovers will enjoy J. René in the West End, rivaling New Bedford’s Green Bean.
Nightlife: Catch live theater at Hartford Stage (tickets ~$30–$80) or music at Infinity Hall (varies). Bars like Tisane mix martinis with a hip vibe, less nautical than New Bedford’s Whaler’s Tavern but just as eclectic. We found an amazing gathering of goths.

Outdoor and Active Pursuits

Riverfront Recapture (Connecticut River): Expect paved trails for biking or walking, with skyline views and access to kayaking (~$20/hour rental). The Riverfront Plaza hosts summer concerts, free, like New Bedford’s harbor walks but more developed.
Keney Park (North End): A 693-acre sprawl with trails, a golf course, and a cricket field. Expect solitude on wooded paths, free, similar to Southeastern Massachusetts’ Bioreserve but more urban-adjacent.
Charter Oak Landing: A riverside park with fishing spots and picnic tables, tied to the 1637 Charter Oak legend. It’s quieter than Bushnell, like West Beach in New Bedford for its low-key coastal feel.

Country fans gather for a concert at Infinity Hall

Overall Visitor Experience

Vibe: Hartford feels like a small city with big stories—part government hub, part cultural underdog. It’s less industrial than Fall River or New Bedford but shares their working-class pride, with Puerto Rican, Italian, and African American influences woven in. Think less touristy polish than Boston, more heart than Springfield.
Getting Around: From Boston (02108), it’s a 90–100-minute drive via I-90 (100 miles). Downtown Hartford is walkable (1–2 miles across), with sites like the Wadsworth and Capitol steps apart. Free DASH shuttles loop downtown; parking is ~$5–$10/day. For outer spots like Elizabeth Park, a car or rideshare ($10) is handy. No direct rail yet, unlike New Bedford’s upcoming South Coast Rail.
Timing: Spring and fall offer mild weather and foliage; summer brings festivals (e.g., Greater Hartford Festival of Jazz, free); winter suits indoor museums. A 1–2-day visit covers highlights, expandable for deeper dives.
Budget: Most attractions are affordable—$5–$25 for museums, free for parks. Meals range from $10 street eats to $40 upscale. Hotels (e.g., Hilton Hartford) run $120–$200/night; Airbnbs start at ~$80. Cheaper than Boston, similar to New Bedford.
Unique Aspects: Hartford balances colonial roots (it’s one of America’s oldest cities, founded 1636) with modern renewal—think tech startups and riverfront projects. Its literary legacy (Twain, Harriet Beecher Stowe) and insurance history add layers not found in Southeastern Massachusetts’ maritime focus.

Sample Itinerary (2 Days)

Day 1: Downtown & Culture

Morning: Tour Mark Twain House (2 hrs).
Lunch: Parkville Market for global bites (1 hr, ~$15).
Afternoon: Explore Wadsworth Atheneum (2 hrs) and Pratt Street (30 min).
Evening: Dinner at Zohara and a show at Hartford Stage. Stay downtown (e.g., Goodwin Hotel).

Day 2: History & Nature

Morning: Visit Connecticut State Capitol (1 hr) and Bushnell Park carousel (1 hr).
Lunch: Cora Cora for Peruvian (~$15).
Afternoon: Stroll Elizabeth Park gardens (1.5 hrs) and Cedar Hill Cemetery (1 hr).
Evening: Drinks at Hog River Brewing before heading back or extending.

Choose it for a city vibe with history and arts, ideal if you want walkability over waterfronts. It’s a cultural hub closer to Boston than Fall River but distinct from both.

Hartford delivers a layered experience—historic yet forward-looking, polished yet real.