JUST BACK FROM: South Eastern Massachusetts

Eoghan Corry and Chris Nandi curator at Battleship Cove, the world’s largest naval ship museum, home to five National Historic Landmarks: the battleship USS Massachusetts (BB-59), destroyer USS Joseph P. Kennedy Jr., submarine USS Lionfish, two PT boats, and more. Visitors can explore nine decks of the Massachusetts, crawling through tight quarters, climbing ladders, and seeing crew bunks, gun turrets, and a hospital bay. Exhibits include WWII and Cold War artifacts, with videos of veterans’ stories.

Southeastern Massachusetts, encompassing areas like New Bedford, Fall River, and the Buzzards Bay region, offers visitors a rich tapestry of maritime history, vibrant local culture, and scenic coastal beauty. From historic naval ships to craft breweries and waterfront dining, the region blends gritty heritage with modern charm. Here’s what you can expect from a visit, tailored to a visitor starting near Boston (about an hour’s drive away).

The area’s must-do is Battleship Cove (Fall River, MA): Located at 5 Water Street in Fall River, Battleship Cove is the world’s largest naval ship museum, home to five National Historic Landmarks: the battleship USS Massachusetts (BB-59), destroyer USS Joseph P. Kennedy Jr., submarine USS Lionfish, two PT boats, and more. Visitors can explore nine decks of the Massachusetts, crawling through tight quarters, climbing ladders, and seeing crew bunks, gun turrets, and a hospital bay.

Exhibits include WWII and Cold War artifacts, with videos of veterans’ stories. It’s a hands-on history lesson, immersive for kids and adults alike. Expect to spend 2–3 hours wandering the ships, with self-guided or audio tours. The Massachusetts feels frozen in 1945, with creaky decks and authentic gear.

The nearby Maritime Museum adds context with PT boat displays and local naval history. Veterans’ memorials, like the Iwo Jima replica, are a short walk away. It’s educational but raw—some areas show rust, reflecting the ships’ age. Open daily, 9 AM–5 PM (summer); tickets are ~$25/adult. Wear sturdy shoes for ladders; not fully accessible. Free parking. About 15 minutes from New Bedford, 30 from Westport. Bring a picnic for the waterfront park. A visceral dive into naval history, rare for its scale and authenticity, honoring sacrifices without glossing over the era’s grit.

Chris Nardi’s story

Chris Nardi, the curator shared his experiences: My favourite part is the history of the ship, because I was fortunate enough to still to be here when the former crew members were still alive. There are probably very few of them left now, but I heard their stories, talked to them. They gave us all sorts of information what life was like on board the ship, detail we can’t get from anywhere else.

We have the helicopter hangar here, which we where we preserve two Vietnam era helicopters that both saw combat in Vietnam. Most of the quite a few of the exhibits here are maintained by our volunteers. The helicopters in there are maintained by our volunteers.

It all started with the battleship Massachusetts, which is a World War II battleship that was going to be scrapped in 1962. And the former crew member was found out and they said, we can’t let that happen. They started the process of trying to save the ship and between local politicians, Massachusetts school children who gave literally pennies and nickels and other efforts brought the ship back here to Fall River. And then once we had that here in 1965, the other ships started to arrive. We have the Joseph P. Kennedy, Joseph P. Kennedy Jr., which is a destroyer that was built or commissioned just after the war ended. She named after John F. Kennedy’s eldest brother who was killed during World War II.

That ship was one of the two destroyers that stopped the Russian freighter during the Cuban missile crisis. She also was involved in the Gemini space program recovery of the capsules that splashed back down after they were in orbit. Carrie John F. Kennedy and his family watched the America’s Cup races in 1963 from that ship. So she has some decent history to her.

Then we have the submarine lionfish next to her, which is a World War II submarine, the war was over by the time she was completed. After the war she served as a training boat until she came here in 1972. And then the destroyer came here in 1974.

There’s a landing craft outside the door here which represents those devices, if you will, that brought troops ashore. You see that in D-day movies and such. Not a lot of protection for the troops. They just stood in there and the ramp went down and they had to go out right onto the beach.

Our volunteers and staff, but mostly volunteers, focus on restoring the ships to their wartime or their service configuration. Because what happens is when a ship is, when the Navy decides they’re not going to use a ship anymore, they sit in a reserve fleet and quite often the Navy comes on and takes parts off that they need for other ships.

So that’s what our folks focus on is either making, fabricating those parts from scratch or finding them on other, salvaging other ships and putting them back so that when people go on board these ships they get a really authentic experience. Down the street we have the Maritime Museum which is dedicated to preserving or recognising the very rich maritime heritage we have in this area. We have a huge exhibit dedicated to the Titanic.

We also preserve what’s called the Fall River Line, which was some very majestic boats that went back and forth between here and New York City up until the early 30s. So there’s a huge archive of artifacts there and documentation regarding that. It was quite luxurious but unfortunately I don’t think any of those boats remain anywhere.

The Fall River Carousel is a beautifully restored classic carousel located in Heritage State Park in Fall River, Massachusetts.

Other Notable Sites

Falls River Carousel. Originally built in the early 20th century by the Philadelphia Toboggan Company, this hand-carved wooden carousel features intricately detailed horses and a nostalgic charm. Operated by Red Oak Hospitality, the carousel is a cherished local landmark.
New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center (New Bedford, ~15 miles from Battleship Cove): A small, community-focused museum at 38 Bethel Street celebrating New Bedford’s modern fishing industry—America’s top fishing port by value. Displays include nets, scallop dredges, and oral histories from fishers. Expect intimate exhibits and occasional demos like net-mending. It’s less polished than the Whaling Museum but deeply authentic, with volunteers often sharing personal tales. Perfect for understanding the city’s working waterfront. Takes about 45 minutes. Open Thursday–Sunday, 10 AM–4 PM; $5 entry. Pair with a harbor walk to see fishing boats. Free street parking nearby. A grounded look at today’s maritime life, not just the whaling past.
Horseneck Beach State Reservation (Westport, ~5 miles from Buzzards Bay Brewing): A 2-mile stretch of sandy beach along Buzzards Bay, with dunes, gentle surf, and space for swimming or kite-flying. Less crowded than Cape Cod beaches, it’s a locals’ favorite. Picnic areas and a snack bar add convenience. The vibe is relaxed, with families splashing in warm waters and anglers casting for stripers. Expect breezy walks and distant views of the Elizabeth Islands. Ideal for unwinding post-brewery. Open dawn to dusk; $20 parking for non-residents (summer). Bring water shoes for rocky patches. Great for birdwatching in spring/autumn. A serene coastal escape that feels undiscovered compared to touristy shores.
Fort Phoenix (Fairhaven, ~10 miles from New Bedford): A historic fort from 1775 at Fort Street, with Revolutionary War cannons overlooking Buzzards Bay. It’s a small park with a sandy beach, grassy lawns, and walking paths. Interpretive signs detail its role in fending off British ships. Expect a quiet visit, maybe 30 minutes, with kids climbing cannons and couples enjoying harbor views. The beach is great for shell-collecting, and you might spot fishing boats passing the hurricane barrier. Free entry and parking; open daily. Pair with a meal at nearby Margaret’s for diner-style comfort food. Best at sunrise or sunset. A bite-sized dose of history and scenery, perfect for a low-key stop.
Southeastern Massachusetts Bioreserve (Fall River/Freetown, ~20 miles from Battleship Cove): A 13,600-acre wilderness of forests, streams, and trails, including Freetown-Fall River State Forest. Highlights include Profile Rock, a 50-foot outcrop resembling Chief Massasoit, and trails for hiking or mountain biking. Expect pine-scented air and vernal pools teeming with wildlife. It’s a nature lover’s haven, far from coastal crowds. Trails range from easy (1-mile loops) to rugged (5+ miles), with spots like Watuppa Reservation for birdwatching. Takes 1–3 hours depending on your pace. Free entry; parking at trailheads. Bring bug spray and a trail map (online or at kiosks). Best in autumn for foliage. A wild contrast to urban sites, showcasing the region’s ecological depth.

Buzzards Bay Brewing encounter between Eoghan Corry and Gary Thompson who competed for Ireland in cycling in the Los Angeles Olympics in 1984.

Fine dining and Buzzard’s Brew

Buzzards Bay Brewing (Westport, MA): Located at 98 Horseneck Road in Westport, this family-run brewery specializes in beers crafted from American-grown wheat and hops, emphasizing local ingredients. Visitors can tour the brewery and enjoy tastings in a laid-back taproom or outdoor patio. Expect a rustic, farm-like setting with a focus on sustainability—some beers use estate-grown barley. Popular brews include the crisp Buzzards Bay IPA or seasonal ales like Oktoberfest. The vibe is casual and community-driven, with occasional food trucks or live music (check their schedule). Tours are informal, often led by staff passionate about the craft, explaining the brewing process and Westport’s agricultural roots. It’s a great spot to relax with a flight of beers, maybe paired with local cheese from nearby farms.
The Back Eddy (Westport, MA). Located at 1 Bridge Road on the Westport River, The Back Eddy is a quintessential dock-to-table experience that captures the region’s coastal soul, a waterfront restaurant renowned for its seafood-heavy menu and lively atmosphere. Expect dishes like crispy fried oysters, grilled swordfish, or their famous lobster roll, all sourced from local waters. The dining room and outdoor deck offer views of boats bobbing in the river, especially stunning at sunset. It’s a bustling spot where locals and visitors mix, with a bar serving craft cocktails and regional wines. The vibe is upscale yet relaxed—think nautical chic with a touch of New England grit. Service is friendly but can slow during peak summer hours. Reservations are wise, especially for outdoor seating. Open seasonally (spring to fall), with hours varying; check ahead. It’s about 25 minutes from New Bedford and pairs well with a brewery visit. Expect entrees in the $20–$40 range. Parking can be tight on weekends.

Eoghan Corry and Amy Desrosiers of New Bedford Tourism outside Back Eddy

Back Eddy, Southern Massachusetts

Overall Visitor Experience

Vibe: The region feels like New England’s working-class heart—proudly maritime, a bit rough around the edges, but warm and evolving. You’ll see fishing boats alongside art murals, and hear stories of whalers, sailors, and immigrants. It’s less polished than Cape Cod but more authentic for it.
Getting Around: From Boston (02108), it’s a 60–75-minute drive via I-93 and Route 24 to New Bedford or Fall River. The sites above are within a 30-mile radius, easily connected by Routes 6 or 195. Rent a car for flexibility; public transit (MBTA’s South Coast Rail to New Bedford starts March 2025) is limited. Parking is generally free or cheap outside beaches.
Timing: Summer offers beaches and festivals, but spring and autumn are quieter with vivid landscapes. Winter suits indoor sites like Battleship Cove. Aim for 2–3 days to hit all spots comfortably.
Food & Drink: Beyond The Back Eddy, expect seafood shacks (try Oxford Creamery in Mattapoisett for lobster rolls), Portuguese bakeries (like Amaral’s in New Bedford), and diners. Breweries and waterfront bars add nightlife, especially in New Bedford’s Seaport District.
Budget: Most attractions are affordable—$5–$25 for museums, free for parks. Dining ranges from $10 casual to $40 upscale. Lodging in New Bedford or Fall River (e.g., Hampton Inn) runs $100–$200/night.
Unique Aspects: The region’s Portuguese and Cape Verdean influences shine in food and festivals (like New Bedford’s Feast of the Blessed Sacrament in August). Its industrial past—whaling, textiles, fishing—grounds every experience, yet green spaces and craft culture signal renewal.

Boat Show, grilled swordfish, garlic mashed, asparagus, lemon-chive butter in Back Eddy, Westport, Massachusetts

Sample Itinerary Day 1: Westport & New Bedford

Morning: Start at Horseneck Beach for a walk or swim (1 hr).
Midday: Head to Buzzards Bay Brewing for a tour and tasting (1.5 hrs).
Lunch: Dine at The Back Eddy, savoring river views (1.5 hrs).
Afternoon: Explore New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center and stroll the harbor (2 hrs).
Evening: Dinner at Cork Wine & Tapas in New Bedford for small plates. Stay overnight in New Bedford.

Sample Itinerary Day 2: Fall River & Fairhaven

Morning: Immerse yourself at Battleship Cove (2.5 hrs).
Lunch: Grab a quick bite at Patti’s Pierogis in Fall River for Polish comfort food.
Afternoon: Visit Fort Phoenix for history and bay views (1 hr), then hike Profile Rock at the Bioreserve (2 hrs).
Evening: Return to Boston or extend your stay with dinner at Elizabeth’s in Fairhaven for seafood.

This mix of sites offers history, nature, and local flavor without the tourist traps of nearby Cape Cod