JUST BACK FROM: A craft brewery and distillery tour of Chicago

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Most of the personalities you meet in the craft beverage scene in Chicago will reference two things, how successful is the movement, and a generous couple of references, no names need to be added (Al Capone) to prohibition.

A city aware that some of its most famous personalities were prohibition era gangsters was slower than others to embrace the craft brewery movement. It made up for lost time. Pre pandemic, it was thriving, with its vibrant tapestry of distilleries and breweries were drawing enthusiasts from near and far. How goes it now?

Our tour through Chicago’s Ravenswood neighbourhood and beyond offers a spirited journey into the heart of its craft culture. 

Koval Distillery: Pioneering Chicago’s Spirits Revival

Prominently located at 4241 N. Ravenswood Avenue, Koval Distillery stands as a beacon of Chicago’s distilling heritage, proudly claiming the title of the city’s first distillery since Prohibition ended in the 1930s. Founded in 2008 by husband-and-wife team Robert and Sonat Birnecker, Koval – meaning “blacksmith” in Yiddish – channels Robert’s Austrian distilling lineage into a modern, organic approach. 

The Birneckers left academic careers to craft spirits from scratch, shunning the industry practice of bottling pre-made products. Their “grain-to-bottle” philosophy ensures every step, from sourcing organic Midwestern grains to distilling in a state-of-the-art 5,000-litre Kothe hybrid pot still, is meticulously controlled.

Koval’s key offerings include its award-winning single-barrel whiskeys, such as rye and millet, celebrated for their clean, bright profiles thanks to the distillery’s signature “heart cut” technique, which uses only the purest part of the distillate. Their gin, infused with 13 woodland botanicals, delivers citrus-floral notes, while liqueurs like cranberry gin and ginger add flair to their portfolio. The distillery has earned over 100 international awards, cementing its status as one of America’s largest independent and woman-owned craft distilleries.

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Visitors on Koval’s 45-minute tour are treated to an immersive experience, beginning in the visitor centre with exhibits on distilling. Guided by experts, guests overlook the production floor, learning the intricacies of Koval’s process before sampling three spirits – perhaps a bourbon, rye, or their unique Bierbrand, crafted in collaboration with local breweries like Goose Island. The tour concludes with a souvenir Glencairn whiskey glass and the chance to linger in the sunlit tasting room, sipping cocktails like the Koval Old Fashioned or Clarified Painkiller. Cocktail classes and mixology workshops are also available, offering hands-on engagement with Koval’s innovative spirit.

Begyle Brewing: A Neighbourhood Gem on Malt Row

A short stroll from Koval, Begyle Brewing at 1800 W. Cuyler Avenue embodies the community-driven ethos of Chicago’s Malt Row, a stretch of Ravenswood’s industrial corridor now home to a cluster of taprooms. Founded in 2012 by Kevin Cary and Matt Ritchey, Begyle emerged as one of Chicago’s earliest craft breweries, transitioning from homebrewing to becoming the city’s 12th brewery in a scene that now boasts nearly 100. Their brick-and-timber taproom, opened in 2014, exudes a welcoming, no-frills vibe, with a sidewalk patio seating 60 and whiskey barrels doubling as tables.

Begyle’s diverse draft list caters to all palates, with flagship beers like Free Bird Pale Ale, Hophazardly IPA, and a blonde ale brewed with Midwestern honey drawing crowds. Their barrel-aged Flannel Pajamas imperial stouts, matured in Heaven Hill Distillery bourbon barrels, offer rich vanilla and maple-cinnamon notes, perfect for Chicago’s chilly winters. The brewery’s Community Supported Brewing programme, a subscription for monthly growler fill-ups, underscores its local roots.

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Tours at Begyle are informal yet engaging, offering a behind-the-scenes look at their brewing process. Visitors can expect a relaxed atmosphere, with trivia nights, food pop-ups, and a dog-friendly patio fostering a sense of camaraderie. “Begyle’s about building a larger family,” Kevin Cary told us, reflecting on the brewery’s role in the community. Its proximity to Wrigley Field makes it a favourite for pre- or post-game pints, with cans sold at Sox games and the Salt Shed music venue.

Goose Island: The Craft Beer Pioneer

No Chicago brewery tour is complete without Goose Island Beer Company, the city’s oldest operating brewery, founded in 1988 by John Hall in Lincoln Park. Named after a nearby island, Goose Island began as a brewpub on Clybourn Avenue, with a larger production brewery opening in 1995 on Fulton Street. Now a subsidiary of Anheuser-Busch InBev since 2011, Goose Island remains a craft icon, blending English brewing traditions with bold innovation under brewmaster Brett Porter.

Goose Island’s portfolio is vast, with year-round beers like 312 Urban Wheat Ale and seasonal releases, but its Bourbon County Stout stands out. First crafted in 1992 (or possibly 1995) by former brewmaster Greg Hall, this bourbon barrel-aged stout, matured in Jim Beam barrels, revolutionised the style with its rich, complex flavours. The annual late-November release of Bourbon County variants is a pilgrimage for beer aficionados.

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Tours at Goose Island’s Fulton Street brewery offer an in-depth exploration of the brewing process, from the Brew Deck to the fermentation cellar and barrel-aging programme. Guests sample current and experimental brews, enjoying generous pours and a complimentary custom glass. The Clybourn Avenue Brewhouse, recently renovated, pairs beers with brunch, lunch, or dinner, often alongside local food trucks. 

Chicago’s Craft Scene: A Boozy Stroll Through History

These three establishments reflect Chicago’s dynamic craft beverage culture, which has grown from a handful of breweries in the 2000s to a powerhouse of nearly 100 today. Malt Row, encompassing Begyle, Dovetail, Half Acre, and Koval, is a microcosm of this evolution, blending industrial grit with residential charm. The area’s accessibility via the CTA Brown Line and Metra’s UP-N Line makes it ideal for a self-guided tour, with taprooms and distilleries within a mile and a half of each other.

Koval’s global influence, with distribution in 55+ markets and consulting for 190 distilleries worldwide, highlights Chicago’s leadership in craft spirits. Meanwhile, Begyle’s community focus and Goose Island’s pioneering legacy showcase the city’s brewing diversity. Visitors can expect a mix of education, tastings, and local flavour, with each stop offering unique insights into Chicago’s craft ethos.

For those eager to explore, pre-register for Koval’s tours at koval-distillery.com, check Begyle’s schedule at begylebrewing.com, and book Goose Island’s weekend tours via gooseisland.com. Whether you’re a whiskey aficionado or a beer enthusiast, Chicago’s craft scene promises a heady adventure.

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