Alcobaça in the Centro de Portugal Region is the venue for the annual conference of the Irish Travel Agents Association on October 1-5. The venue is Montebelo Mosteiro de Alcobaça Historic Hotel, 121km north of Lisbon. Pre-registration for the conference opened on Thursday (email info@itaa.ie) and there was a quick uptake.
- Monastery of Alcobaça (Mosteiro de Alcobaça): This is the town’s crown jewel, a stunning example of Gothic architecture founded in 1153 by King Afonso Henriques. Marvel at the soaring nave, the intricate tombs of King Pedro I and Inês de Castro (a tragic love story worth learning about), and the serene cloisters. The kitchen, with its massive chimney, is a quirky highlight. Entry is around €6, with free admission on the first Sunday of each month for residents.
- Explore the Tombs of Pedro and Inês: Inside the monastery, these exquisitely carved 14th-century tombs face each other so the lovers can “see” one another upon rising in the afterlife. The detailed stonework and the romantic yet grim tale make this a must-see.
- Stroll Around Praça 25 de Abril: The square in front of the monastery is a great spot to soak in local life. Grab a coffee at a nearby café, watch the world go by, and admire the monastery’s baroque facade.
- Discover the Wine Museum (Museu do Vinho de Alcobaça): Housed in a former winery, this museum showcases Portugal’s winemaking heritage with over 8,500 artifacts, from ancient presses to barrels. Tours often end with a tasting—perfect for wine enthusiasts. It’s a short walk from the town center.
- Wander the Ruins of Alcobaça Castle: Perched on a hill, the castle ruins offer a glimpse into the town’s medieval past and panoramic views. It’s been abandoned since the 19th century, but the remaining walls and keep hint at its Moorish and Cistercian history.
- Relax at São Martinho do Porto Bay: About 15 minutes by car, this clam-shaped bay is a sheltered, family-friendly beach with calm waters—ideal for swimming or a peaceful walk. The cliffs framing it add dramatic beauty.
- Hike to Praia do Salgado: Another nearby beach (roughly 20 minutes away), this wild, sandy stretch is less crowded and perfect for nature lovers. The cliffs and sunsets are breathtaking, though the waves can be strong, so it’s better for strolling than swimming.
- Visit the Monastery of Santa Maria de Coz: A 10 km drive to the village of Coz takes you to this 13th-century Cistercian nunnery. Its baroque church contrasts with its austere exterior, offering a quieter historical stop.
- Try Local Sweets and Cuisine: Sample convent-inspired treats like cornucópias (pastry horns filled with cream) or pão de ló (sponge cake) from Alfeizerão. Don’t miss Alcobaça apples or a glass of ginjinha (cherry liqueur) at a local café. Restaurants like António Padeiro are praised for traditional dishes.
- Explore Parque dos Monges: This green space in Évora de Alcobaça (a short drive) blends nature with history, featuring gardens and monk-related exhibits. It’s a relaxing spot for a picnic or a leisurely walk.
- Day Trip to Nearby UNESCO Sites: Alcobaça pairs well with Batalha Monastery (15 minutes away) and Tomar’s Convent of Christ (about an hour). A combo Heritage Route ticket can save money.
- Walk the Town’s Historic Streets: Beyond the monastery, Alcobaça’s small size makes it easy to explore on foot. Look for ceramic shops (a local craft) and the subtle nods to its love-themed identity, tied to Pedro and Inês.
The legend of Pedro and Inês
The legend of Pedro and Inês is one of Portugal’s most famous and tragic love stories, often compared to Diarmuid agus Gráinne or Romeo and Juliet. It’s deeply tied to Alcobaça, where their tombs reside in the Monastery of Alcobaça. Here’s the tale:
In the 14th century, Dom Pedro (1320–1367), the heir to the Portuguese throne and son of King Afonso IV, was married to Constança of Castile as part of a political alliance. Constança brought with her a lady-in-waiting, Inês de Castro (1325–1355), a beautiful noblewoman from Galicia. Pedro fell passionately in love with Inês, sparking an affair that scandalized the court.
When Constança died in 1345 during childbirth, Pedro refused to remarry as his father wished, instead openly living with Inês. They had four children together, and their relationship grew stronger despite the king’s disapproval. Afonso IV and his advisors feared Inês’ influence—and her Spanish family, the Castros—threatened the throne’s stability, potentially dragging Portugal into conflict with Castile.
In 1355, while Pedro was away, Afonso IV seized the chance to end the affair. He ordered Inês’ execution, and on January 7, she was brutally murdered by three noblemen—Pêro Coelho, Álvaro Gonçalves, and Diogo Lopes Pacheco—at the Quinta das Lágrimas estate in Coimbra. Legend says her blood stained the stones, and a fountain there, the Fonte das Lágrimas (Fountain of Tears), still runs red in her memory.
Pedro was devastated and enraged. After Afonso IV’s death in 1357, Pedro ascended as King Pedro I and sought vengeance. He tracked down two of Inês’ killers (the third escaped to France), had their hearts ripped out—one from the chest, one from the back—as he watched, earning him the nickname “Pedro the Cruel.” But the legend takes a macabre turn: Pedro allegedly exhumed Inês’ body, crowned her as his queen posthumously, and forced the court to kiss her decayed hand in recognition, a chilling act of devotion.
Historically, the exhumation story is debated—some call it propaganda—but it’s cemented in Portuguese folklore. Pedro had their tombs built in Alcobaça’s monastery, positioned foot-to-foot so that, on Judgment Day, they’d rise and see each other first. The tombs, carved with scenes of their lives and the Last Judgment, bear the inscription “Até o fim do mundo” (“Until the end of the world”), symbolizing their eternal bond.
The tale blends fact and myth: Inês’ death was real, as was Pedro’s revenge, but the gothic flourishes—like the posthumous coronation—grew over time. It’s a story of love defying politics, death, and time itself, hauntingly preserved in Alcobaça’s stone. Today, it’s a cultural touchstone, inspiring poems, plays, and visits to their resting place.
