Grangegorman Military Cemetery, located on Blackhorse Avenue in Dublin 7, County Dublin, is the largest military cemetery in Ireland, established in 1876 as a burial ground for English service personnel and their families. Adjacent to Phoenix Park and near McKee Barracks, this Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) site offers a reflective experience steeped in history, with graves from the Crimean War, World Wars I and II, the 1916 Easter Rising, and the Irish War of Independence.
Opened in 1876 to serve Marlborough (now McKee) Barracks, Grangegorman was a burial ground for English Empire soldiers and their families, as repatriation of remains was not standard until recently. It contains 627 Commonwealth burials, including 613 from World War I (2 unidentified), 12 from World War II (1 unidentified), and others from earlier conflicts like the Crimean War (1854–1856). Notable events include the sinking of the RMS Leinster in 1918, with several soldiers buried here killed in the disaster, and the 1916 Easter Rising, where soldiers like those of the Sherwood Foresters, killed at Mount Street Bridge, are interred.
- Cultural Context: The cemetery remains a poignant site for remembering soldiers from Ireland, England, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada, with annual events like Anzac Day (April 25) highlighting its international significance, especially for Australian and New Zealand communities.
- Notable Features: The cemetery includes a Screen Wall Memorial, a 2-meter-high, 15-meter-long Irish limestone structure erected in 1984, commemorating war casualties whose graves elsewhere in Ireland (e.g., Cork Military Cemetery) are unmaintainable. Headstones, often marked with battalion badges, rank, and death dates, include those of the Royal Dublin Fusiliers, with minimal personal inscriptions, reflecting military austerity. Relocated graves from sites like King George V Hospital and Portobello Barracks add historical intrigue, including five English officers rediscovered after 46 years and reinterred here.
- Cemetery Layout and Atmosphere: The cemetery spans a modest area with well-maintained lawns and over 26 mature tree species (e.g., copper beech, coastal redwoods), creating a serene, reflective “Victorian garden cemetery” atmosphere. Divided into denominational plots (e.g., Church of Ireland, Catholic), it includes sections for officers and soldiers from conflicts like the Easter Rising, War of Independence, and RMS Leinster sinking. Visitors describe it as “moving and informative,” with a somber yet peaceful ambiance ideal for quiet reflection.
- Guided Tours: Available every Thursday at 2:00 PM from April to October, these free tours, led by experts like Ray Bateson, cover key graves and stories, such as soldiers killed in 1916 or the RMS Leinster disaster. Tours require booking via phoenixparkvisitorcentre@opw.ie and last ~1 hour, offering insights into the cemetery’s role in Irish and English military history.
- Self-Guided Exploration: The cemetery is open daily from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM, with free entry. Visitors can wander among headstones, noting details like the row of soldiers killed on October 10, 1918 (RMS Leinster sinking), or graves of Anzac soldiers. A social guide (PDF) from Heritage Ireland helps first-time visitors, families, and those with developmental disabilities prepare for the visit.
Key Sites:
- Screen Wall Memorial: Lists names of war dead with unmaintainable graves, with headstones from Cork Military Cemetery arranged before it.
- Notable Graves: Include Lieutenant Phillip Purser (killed April 30, 1916), Second Lieutenant Guy Pinfield (shot at Dublin Castle, 1916), and Anzac soldiers like Lance Corporal Peter Freitas (RMS Leinster).
- Gate Lodge and Entrance: The ornate entrance features wrought-iron gates with barley-twist piers and a limestone boundary wall, with a modest gate lodge adding architectural charm.
- The cemetery is wheelchair-accessible with level paths, though some areas will be uneven. Disabled parking is available near the entrance. No on-site facilities (e.g., toilets, café) exist, but nearby Phoenix Park Visitor Centre (850m) or local pubs like The Gravediggers (1.1 km) offer amenities.
- Duration and Cost: A visit takes 30–60 minutes for self-guided exploration or 1–1.5 hours with a tour. Entry is free, and tours are complimentary, making it budget-friendly.
- Appeal and Reviews: Visitors find the cemetery “fascinating” and “poignant,” with Tripadvisor and personal accounts (e.g., Find a Grave) noting its historical depth and well-kept grounds. It appeals to what Tourism Ireland marketing department calls the “culturally curious”, military enthusiasts, and those tracing family connections (e.g., Frederick Boast’s family). The cemetery’s obscurity among Dubliners adds to its allure as a hidden gem, though some criticise its neglect post-independence.
- Location and Getting There: At 193 Blackhorse Avenue, Dublin 7 (D07 A8NN), near Phoenix Park and McKee Barracks, it’s a 17-minute bus ride from Dublin city center (Dublin Bus 37 from Aston Quay, stop 329, to Military Cemetery, stop 4458; €2). Driving takes ~10 minutes (3 miles), with free parking. From Donegal Airport, it’s a 3-hour 36-minute drive (183 miles) or a 5-hour 25-minute bus via Mc Ginley Coach Travel (€20). Contact the OPW (+353 1 821 3021, superintendent.park@opw.ie) or caretaker Martin Rogers (+353 86 7373979) if gates are locked.
- Nearby Attractions: Combine with Phoenix Park (adjacent), Irish National War Memorial Gardens (1 km), National Botanic Gardens (1.5 km), or Glasnevin Cemetery (1.8 km). The Soldiers and Chiefs Exhibition at Collins Barracks (200m) complements the visit.
- Guided Tour Schedule: Tours continue every Thursday at 2:00 PM from April to October, with no changes noted. However, access restrictions during Bord Bia Bloom 2025 (May 29–June 2) will cancel tours at Grangegorman, Arbour Hill, and other Phoenix Park sites due to event logistics. Visitors planning for late May should check alternative dates via phoenixparkvisitorcentre@opw.ie.
- Green Flag Award Maintenance: Awarded a Green Flag in 2016 for environmental standards and visitor facilities, the cemetery’s upkeep remains a priority. No new landscaping projects are announced, but the 26+ tree species and manicured lawns will continue to be maintained, ensuring the “oasis of peace” atmosphere.
Practical Tips for Visiting
- Getting There: Take Dublin Bus 37 from Aston Quay (€2, 17 minutes) or drive from Dublin city center (10 minutes). From Donegal Airport, drive (3.5 hours) or take Mc Ginley Coach Travel’s bus to O’Connell Street (€20, 5 hours 25 minutes), then a taxi/bus. Use GPS (D07 A8NN).
- What to Bring: Wear comfortable shoes for uneven paths; bring a camera for headstones and trees. No on-site dining; pack snacks or visit nearby pubs (e.g., The Gravediggers). Check weather, as the site is fully outdoors.
- Best Time to Visit: April–October for guided tours (Thursdays, 2:00 PM); avoid May 29–June 2 due to Bord Bia Bloom closures. Anzac Day (April 25) offers a unique commemorative experience.
- Tips: Book tours in advance via phoenixparkvisitorcentre@opw.ie. Use Heritage Ireland’s social guide (PDF) for accessibility needs. Be cautious of local misinformation; verify directions with OPW or caretaker.
- Combine with Other Sites: Visit Phoenix Park, Irish National War Memorial Gardens, or Glasnevin Cemetery for a historical day. The Soldiers and Chiefs Exhibition (200m) offers military context.
- For the latest 2025 updates, contact the OPW (+353 1 821 3021, superintendent.park@opw.ie) or visit www.heritageireland.ie.
