NAPLES: A walking tour

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Start your tour at Piazza del Plebiscito, Naples’ grandest square, flanked by the neoclassical Basilica di San Francesco di Paola and the Royal Palace. Admire the sweeping colonnades and the equestrian statues, soaking in the city’s regal yet chaotic charm. From here, stroll north along Via Chiaia, a lively street packed with shops and cafés, capturing Naples’ vibrant energy.

After about 10 minutes, you’ll reach Piazza dei Martiri, a chic square with elegant boutiques. Nearby, stop at Pizzeria Brandi (Salita S. Anna di Palazzo, 1-2), the birthplace of pizza Margherita in 1889, for a quick lunch of authentic Neapolitan pizza, affordable, no bookings needed, but arrive early to avoid the midday rush. The simple, wood-fired pies are a taste of history.

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Continue north towards Via Toledo, Naples’ bustling shopping artery, lined with historic palazzi and street vendors. Turn right onto Via dei Tribunali, entering the heart of the Centro Storico. Stop at Santa Chiara, a 14th-century monastic complex with a serene cloister adorned with colourful majolica tiles, a quick visit offers a peaceful contrast to the city’s bustle.

Head east along Via dei Tribunali, the pulsing spine of old Naples, to Napoli Sotterranea, where you can glimpse the city’s ancient underground ruins (a short 20-minute tour fits the schedule). Alternatively, pop into Pio Monte della Misericordia, a small church housing Caravaggio’s Seven Acts of Mercy, a masterpiece of Baroque art. The narrow streets here brim with Neapolitan life, think laundry dangling above and the scent of espresso.

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Loop back west towards Spaccanapoli, the street that “splits” Naples, and stop at Scaturchio (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19), a historic patisserie since 1905, for a sfogliatella riccia (crisp, flaky pastry filled with ricotta) or a strong espresso. It’s a no-reservations spot, so arrive promptly to snag a table. The nearby Sansevero Chapel, with its stunning Veiled Christ sculpture, is worth a quick visit if you’ve pre-booked tickets.

Continue south towards Via San Carlo, passing the opulent Teatro di San Carlo, Italy’s oldest opera house, with its lavish red-and-gold façade. From here, you’re steps from Galleria Umberto I, a 19th-century shopping arcade with a soaring glass dome, echoing Milan’s grandeur but with Neapolitan flair. Browse its shops or simply admire the mosaic floor.

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End your tour at Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino), a 13th-century fortress by the waterfront, with dramatic arches and views of the Bay of Naples. For a final treat, visit Caffè Gambrinus (Via Chiaia, 1-2), a belle époque café frequented by artists and intellectuals, for a creamy cappuccino or babà al rum, a rum-soaked Neapolitan pastry. Sit outside to watch the city’s lively street theatre unfold.

This 3-4 km route captures Naples’ chaotic beauty, culinary soul, and historic depth, perfect for a four-hour stroll. Wear comfortable shoes for the uneven cobbles and be ready for the city’s frenetic energy

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