Begin your tour at Ban Jelačić Square, Zagreb’s bustling central plaza, marked by the equestrian statue of Ban Josip Jelačić and surrounded by colourful Austro-Hungarian buildings. Admire the lively atmosphere and the iconic clock, a meeting point for locals. From here, stroll north along Ilica, a vibrant street lined with shops and cafés, capturing Zagreb’s blend of historic charm and modern energy.
After about 10 minutes, stop at Vincek (Ilica 18), a beloved patisserie since 1977, perfect for a quick lunch of a savoury burek (flaky pastry with cheese or meat) or a lighter sandwich, affordable, no reservations needed, but arrive early to avoid the queue. Grab a creamy kava s mlijekom (coffee with milk) to complement the cozy, local vibe.
Continue north to Dolac Market, Zagreb’s vibrant open-air market, where stalls brim with fresh produce, cheeses, and štrukli (cheese-filled dumplings). Wander through the red umbrellas and soak in the city’s daily life. Head east to Zagreb Cathedral, a neo-Gothic masterpiece with twin spires dominating the skyline. Pop in for a quick look at its ornate interior (free entry.
Proceed south along Tkalčićeva Street, a charming, car-free lane packed with pastel-hued buildings, bars, and restaurants, Zagreb’s bohemian heart. Stop at La Štruk (Skalinska 5), a no-reservations eatery specializing in štrukli, served baked or boiled with various toppings, arrive promptly to snag a table.
Continue to St. Mark’s Square, home to the iconic St. Mark’s Church, with its colourful tiled roof depicting medieval coats of arms. Admire the nearby Banski Dvori, the presidential palace, and the quaint, cobblestone charm of Upper Town. For a cultural touch, pop into the Museum of Broken Relationships (Ćirilometodska 2) for a quirky 20-minute visit (small fee), showcasing heartfelt artifacts of love gone awry.
Loop south to Radićeva Street, a steep lane with artisan shops selling local crafts. Stop at Kava Tava (Britanski trg 1, a short detour), a cozy café for a hot chocolate or coffee with a slice of kremšnita (custard cream cake), no bookings needed, but expect a lively crowd. Alternatively, try Vinodol (Teslina 10) for a quick coffee closer to the route.
End your tour at Zrinjevac Park, part of Zagreb’s “Green Horseshoe,” a lush square with fountains and the Meteorological Column. For a final treat, visit Amélie (Vlaška 6), a charming patisserie for a macaron or a glass of Croatian rakija, soaking up Zagreb’s elegant ambiance. Alternatively, relax at Café U Dvoristu (Jurjevska 43, near Upper Town), watching the city’s vibrant street life unfold.This 3-4 km route captures Zagreb’s Austro-Hungarian grandeur, Croatian cuisine, and lively street culture, perfect for a four-hour stroll. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobbled Upper Town streets and bring a light jacket
