There is a crystal clear river that rises in the mountains of northern Spain and flows through Europe’s largest national park – home to the continent’s last wild boars, wolves, bears and eagles.
It flows under a weeping willow just before it enters a gorge and it was here that I experienced one of the greatest joys of mountain-walking – plunging my feet into the cold waters after a 14 kilometre uphill hike along its banks.
The water of the River Cares has, for generations, been jealously guarded from the Spanish sun and it’s the pathways along the channels built to guide it downhill that now provide one of the country’s most famous walks.
If you’re keen to experience the “Real Spain” and like the idea of walking in one of Europe’s last wildernesses, there’s no secret and no problem. All you have to do is pack up the car, catch a couple of ferries, and you’re there.
The mountains are the “Picos de Europa” and are largely unexplored by Irish holidaymakers (along with British, German and French etc) as they tend to drift southwards towards the baking Costas and highrise apartment blocks.
This is a totally different Spain, where the Atlantic breezes mean the temperatures are more bearable, the grass grows and snow stays on the peaks even in the height of summer.
The seas are full of fish, the beaches are simply stunning, there’s a huge choice of hotels and guesthouses, fascinating cities to visit and traditional fiestas galore.
Getting there is easy if you take a ferry to Britain and drive to Plymouth to catch the Brittany Ferries ship to Santander. The mountains start almost as soon as you leave the boat and the Picos are just an hour’s easy drive away by motorway.
The mountains are full of beech and hazel. There are cosy-looking farmsteads surrounded by contented cattle. You can still see farmers cutting hay using scythes just as they did for centuries.
More unmissable walks take in the Lakes of Covodonga (named after a local sacred cave close to the magnificent shrine and cathedral of Nuestra Senora de Covodonga) and the mountain pastures around with fantastic views right to the sea.
If you have the inclination, one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen is close by. Torimbia is an official nudist beach – but it’s not compulsory. Because you can only reach it on foot, it’s never crowded.
Brittany Ferries do a guided tour of the Picos de Europa as do some of the specialist walking holiday companies (you’ll find them in any of the major internet search engines). Alternatively, you can go it yourself.
If you don’t take your car, there’s a railway right along the coast from Santander and a useful taxi service will pick you up and drop you off anywhere around the park (call: 00-34-985-84-50-39 or 616 191 996). A few minutes on the web will find you hotels, car hire and masses of ideas for walks.
