DESTINATION: Ireland’s county Laois

County Laois, pronounced “Leesh” and known as Ireland’s most landlocked county, lies in the heart of the Irish Midlands within the province of Leinster. Part of Ireland’s Ancient East, it offers rolling hills, blanket bogs, the ancient Slieve Bloom Mountains, and a rich tapestry of history from pre-Christian tribes to Norman fortifications. With a population of 91,657 (2022), its county town, Portlaoise, is a transport hub, while charming towns like Abbeyleix, Mountmellick, and Stradbally provide cultural depth and warm hospitality. Visitors can expect a blend of historical sites, outdoor adventures, craft experiences, and vibrant festivals, all set against a backdrop of pastoral countryside. Here’s a detailed overview of what to expect:

Historical and Cultural Attractions:

Rock of Dunamase: Near Portlaoise, this limestone outcrop hosts a ruined 9th-century fort, once a strategic stronghold plundered by Vikings (843 AD) and later owned by Norman lord Strongbow and the O’Moore clan. Free to explore, it offers panoramic views of the O’Moore Valley, especially at sunset, making it a must-visit for history buffs and photographers.
Emo Court House and Gardens: In Emo, this neo-classical mansion, designed by James Gandon in 1790 and completed in 1870, is one of Ireland’s largest estates. Guided tours (€8 adults, April–September) showcase its restored interiors, while the 20-hectare gardens feature formal lawns, a lake, and woodland walks. The estate’s tearoom serves local fare.
Donaghmore Famine Workhouse Museum: In Donaghmore, this restored 1853 workhouse offers guided and self-guided tours (€6 adults) detailing the hardships of the Great Famine, with dormitories, a kitchen, and an agricultural museum displaying local artifacts like butter-making tools. It’s a poignant look at Ireland’s 19th-century history.
Abbeyleix Heritage House: Housed in a historic boys’ school in Abbeyleix, this museum explores Laois’ pre-Christian tribes, Viking history, and Quaker legacy through exhibits and a replica of an 1840s classroom. Entry is €5, with guided tours available.
Mountmellick Embroidery & Heritage Museum: In Mountmellick, this museum in a refurbished 1830 grain mill highlights the town’s Quaker industrial past and its unique embroidery style. Overlooking the Owenass River, it offers workshops and exhibits (€5 adults).
Timahoe Round Tower: In Timahoe, this 12th-century tower, one of Ireland’s finest, stands 30m tall with a carved Romanesque doorway. The adjacent monastic site, founded by St. Mochua, adds historical depth. Free to visit, it’s a serene stop.
Poet’s Cottage: In Camross, this restored 19th-century cottage, named after poet Patrick Ryan, showcases rural Irish life with a thatched roof and period furnishings. Free entry makes it an accessible glimpse into the 1800s.
Aghaboe Abbey: Near Mountrath, this 6th-century monastic site, founded by St. Canice, features ruins of a 13th-century church and a modern church with stained-glass windows. Free to explore, it’s a peaceful historical gem.

Natural Beauty and Outdoor Activities:

Slieve Bloom Mountains: Straddling Laois and Offaly, these ancient mountains (400 million years old) offer trails like the Glenbarrow Eco Walk (6km, 2 hours) and the Slieve Bloom Way (70km, multi-day), showcasing waterfalls, blanket bogs, and views of six counties. Guided eco-tours highlight rare flora and fauna, including red grouse. Free to access, with parking at trailheads like Glenbarrow.
Grand Canal and Barrow Navigation: The Grand Canal near Vicarstown is ideal for boating, kayaking, or cycling along towpaths, with rentals available (€20–€50). The Barrow Way, from Monasterevin to Graiguenamanagh, offers scenic walks or bike rides through lush countryside.
Ballintubbert Gardens: Near Stradbally, these 1850s gardens feature “Garden Rooms” with roses, orchards, and a sunken lawn. Private tours and workshops (from €10) offer a tranquil escape.
Heywood Gardens: In Ballinakill, this Edwardian garden, designed by England’s KingEdwin Lutyens, boasts formal Italianate terraces, a sunken garden, and woodland trails. Free entry, with guided tours available in summer (€5).
Durrow Castle Grounds: In Durrow, this 18th-century manor’s 30-acre estate offers parkland walks and gardens, complementing its luxury hotel and restaurant. Free to explore, with dining options.

Cultural and Craft Experiences:

Ballykilcavan Brewery: On a 13th-generation family farm near Stradbally, this craft brewery offers guided tours (€15) showcasing locally sourced ingredients and tastings of award-winning beers like Bin Bawn Pale Ale.
Laois Craft Scene: Abbeyleix and Mountmellick are hubs for artisans, with workshops at venues like the Mountmellick Embroidery Museum offering embroidery classes (€20–€50). The county’s Viking, Quaker, and Huguenot legacies inspire its craft culture.
Gaelic Games: Matches at O’Moore Park in Portlaoise or local clubs (free or €5–€10). Visitors can try hurling at community events during festivals.

Towns and Villages:

Abbeyleix: A planned 18th-century town with Georgian architecture, it’s home to Heritage House, Morrissey’s Pub (one of Ireland’s oldest), and the Sensory Gardens, designed for accessibility (free entry).
Mountmellick: Known as the “Quaker Town,” it features a heritage trail with information boards and the Embroidery Museum, plus riverside walks along the Owenass.
Stradbally: Famous for the Electric Picnic festival, this village offers Stradbally Hall’s grounds, the Steam Preservation Society’s museum, and a narrow-gauge railway (€5 rides during events).
Portarlington: A Huguenot-founded town with Georgian and Victorian architecture, it’s a base for canal activities and exploring Emo Court.
Durrow: A charming village with Durrow Castle, a scarecrow festival, and access to the Leafy Loop walking trail (10km, free).

Culinary Scene:

Laois offers cozy dining at places like Kelly’s Steakhouse in Abbeyleix for local beef or Castle Durrow’s fine-dining restaurant for seasonal menus (€50–€80). Stradbally’s Bramley’s Café serves homemade scones, while Mountmellick’s pubs offer traditional fare like boxty (€10–€15). Farmers’ markets in Portarlington and Abbeyleix showcase local cheeses and baked goods.

Activities and Events:

Outdoor Adventures: Kayaking on the Grand Canal, cycling the Barrow Way, or hiking in the Slieve Bloom Mountains cater to all levels. Castlecomer Discovery Park (25km from Laois, in County Kilkenny) offers ziplining and high ropes (€20–€40).
Festivals: The Electric Picnic (September 5–7, 2026) at Stradbally Hall is Ireland’s largest music and arts festival, featuring global artists, comedy, and family camping (€250–€300 tickets). The Stradbally Steam Rally (August 3–4) showcases vintage steam engines and tractors (€10).

What’s New for 2026 in County Laois

Electric Picnic Expansion (September 5–7): Ireland’s premier music festival at Stradbally Hall introduces new eco-conscious initiatives in 2026, including sustainable food stalls and expanded family camping options, enhancing its appeal for diverse visitors. Expect a lineup of global and Irish artists, with early bird tickets selling out fast.
National Biodiversity Week (May 16–25): Following a successful 2024, Laois expands its 2026 program with new guided eco-walks in the Slieve Bloom Mountains, community planting events, and workshops at the Bog of Allen Nature Centre, promoting conservation and local biodiversity.
VEX IQ Robotics Finals (May 21): Hosted in Portlaoise, this academic-year-ending competition for young innovators adds new categories in 2026, drawing families and tech enthusiasts to explore Laois’ community spirit. Free to attend, with hands-on STEM activities.
Buds and Blooms Garden Festival (June 6–8): This multi-venue event opens private gardens like Ballintubbert and Heywood to the public, with new 2026 additions including floristry workshops and guided tours focusing on sustainable gardening (€10–€15).
Laois Tourism Campaign: Into Laois and Laois Chamber Alliance launch a 2026 campaign to promote the county as a “hidden gem” in Ireland’s Ancient East. Expect new heritage trails combining sites like Timahoe, Aghaboe Abbey, and Dunamase, plus enhanced visitor signage in villages like Abbeyleix and Mountmellick.
Sustainable Tourism Push: Aligning with 2026’s eco-travel trends, Laois introduces new eco-tours at the Slieve Bloom Mountains and Grand Canal, emphasizing low-impact activities. Local businesses, including Ballykilcavan Brewery, are pursuing B Corp certification to highlight sustainability.

Visitor Tips for 2026:

Best Time to Visit: May (Biodiversity Week) and September (Electric Picnic) offer vibrant events and mild weather (10–15°C). June’s Buds and Blooms is ideal for garden lovers. Winter (December–February) sees lower accommodation costs but wetter conditions, pack waterproof gear.
Getting Around: The M7 motorway makes Laois 1 hour from Dublin. Irish Rail serves Portlaoise and Portarlington from Dublin Heuston (hourly, €15–€20). Bus Éireann’s Route 73 connects Waterford to Mountmellick via Stradbally. Renting a car is best for rural sites like the Slieve Bloom Mountains or Dunamase.
Accommodation: Stay at Castle Durrow Country House Hotel for luxury (€150–€250), Abbeyleix Manor Hotel for mid-range comfort (€80–€120), or B&Bs like Roundwood House in Mountrath (€60–€100). Book early for Electric Picnic. Self-catering cottages in Vicarstown suit families.
Accessibility: Emo Court, Abbeyleix Heritage House, and Donaghmore Museum are wheelchair-accessible, but Dunamase’s rocky terrain and Timahoe’s tower steps may pose challenges. Contact venues for details.
Currency: Euro (€) is used, with 10–15% tipping customary in restaurants if no service charge is added.

County Laois in 2026 offers a serene yet enriching escape with its historic forts, lush landscapes, and vibrant festivals, enhanced by new eco-focused tours and expanded cultural events, making it an underrated gem in Ireland’s Ancient East. For more details, visit www.laoistourism.ie or www.discoverireland.ie.